JUST FEMME + DANDY

silphium

justyna tuchorska cancel & gretel

 Image Description: A portrait of a white non-binary femme-presenting person on a dark background. They are wearing a translucent black dress with thin straps, long faux leather gloves and a black underbust corset that spreads into a miniskirt. The c

Image Description: A portrait of a white non-binary femme-presenting person on a dark background. They are wearing a translucent black dress with thin straps, long faux leather gloves and a black underbust corset that spreads into a miniskirt. The corset is embroidered on the front with a colourful baroque-style applique in the shape resembling a human uterus, with two red lightning crossed in the centre. They are wearing strong colourful makeup and have short, dark blonde hair. They are touching their face with one hand and looking into the camera. Model: Ada Duda @adudaada; Photographer: Przemek Nowak @hazy.alternative

 Image Description: A horizontal full-figure portrait of a white non-binary femme-presenting person laying on a green velvet sofa, looking away into the distance. They are wearing a translucent black dress with thin straps, long faux leather gloves,

Image Description: A horizontal full-figure portrait of a white non-binary femme-presenting person laying on a green velvet sofa, looking away into the distance. They are wearing a translucent black dress with thin straps, long faux leather gloves, chunky black pumps, and a black underbust corset that spreads into a miniskirt. The corset is embroidered on the front with a colourful baroque-style applique in the shape resembling a human uterus, with two red lightning crossed in the centre. They are wearing strong colourful makeup and have short, dark blonde hair. Model: Ada Duda @adudaada; Photographer: Przemek Nowak @hazy.alternative

 Image Description: A portrait of a white non-binary person on a vibrant yellow background. They are wearing a white button-up shirt, lime green pants and a shiny black underbust corset that spreads into a miniskirt. They have short, messy blonde hai

Image Description: A portrait of a white non-binary person on a vibrant yellow background. They are wearing a white button-up shirt, lime green pants and a shiny black underbust corset that spreads into a miniskirt. They have short, messy blonde hair and subtle makeup. They are fixing their collar and looking away into the distance.Model: Ada Duda @adudaada; Photographer: Karolina Wnuk @wnu_kk

 Image Description: A portrait of a white transmasculine person, standing outside on a sunny day in an elaborate pose, looking at the camera. The model is wearing a full, baroque-like green skirt with silver peplum on top, flesh-coloured binder adorn

Image Description: A portrait of a white transmasculine person, standing outside on a sunny day in an elaborate pose, looking at the camera. The model is wearing a full, baroque-like green skirt with silver peplum on top, flesh-coloured binder adorned with knotted strings and a strip of red silk, and

a small, waspie type corset in orange silk. He has mid-length bleached hair and his one hand is heavily tattooed. With another hand, clad in translucent red glove, he is grabbing a red curtain behind him. Model: Maciek Pracz @black_wolfmp; Photographer: Ielyzaveta Podvoiska @summer_nights_photographer

 Image Description: A portrait of a white non-binary femme-presenting person on a dark background. They are wearing a translucent black dress with thin straps, long faux leather gloves and a black underbust corset that spreads into a miniskirt. The c  Image Description: A horizontal full-figure portrait of a white non-binary femme-presenting person laying on a green velvet sofa, looking away into the distance. They are wearing a translucent black dress with thin straps, long faux leather gloves,  Image Description: A portrait of a white non-binary person on a vibrant yellow background. They are wearing a white button-up shirt, lime green pants and a shiny black underbust corset that spreads into a miniskirt. They have short, messy blonde hai  Image Description: A portrait of a white transmasculine person, standing outside on a sunny day in an elaborate pose, looking at the camera. The model is wearing a full, baroque-like green skirt with silver peplum on top, flesh-coloured binder adorn

Silphium(also known as**laserwort, orlaser**), σίλφιον (sílphion) in ancient Greek, is an unidentified plant that was used in classical antiquity as a contraceptive and abortifacient. It is speculated that the widespread use of the plant in a sexual context inspired what we now know as a heart shape.

Abortion access is a topic critical for queer liberation, there is no doubt about that. For people capable of getting pregnant, regardless of their gender, it is an essential part of being able to determine their role in society, much more so when that society is not a particularly queer-friendly one.

Where I’m from, Poland, is one of the only countries in Europe that for the last 31 years upholds strict abortion limitations, effectively rendering all abortions, save for acute life-threatening situations, illegal. I, as a part of a pan-European network of abortion providers and facilitators, often act as a middleman between people who have their abortion access restricted and those who can help them abroad.

It is natural for me that my activist work is reflected in my garment art. Drawing on my earlier costume work, I’ve started a series of corsets and belts incorporating embroidered symbols and colours of pro-choice movements around the world. Starting with the Polish symbol of Red Lightning, upcoming garments from the series will feature Latin America`s pañuelo verde, Irish number 8, American plan C pill, as well as various traditional abortifacient herbs.

While the corset may seem to be an anachronistic and restrictive item, it is one of my favourite garments. It is at the same time hyperfeminine and heavy, thick, almost armour-like. For me, wearing one is an enjoyable way of playing a feminine role, which, though I have no internal connection to it, gives me a feeling of strength and safety in social interactions. For my models and muses, it is a way of gender-bending and creating unusual shapes and textures.