the mask as fashion accessory
dan dy-liacco
In Metro Manila, masks are no longer required in most contexts. However, as Lolita, Ouji, and Aristocrat fashion enthusiast, I still like to incorporate masks into my outfits.
Two young-looking Asian adults, standing in an industrial-looking indoor space. Kerf has short black hair and is wearing a black top hat, red shirt, long black coat with red ribbon lining the edge of his lapels. A red rose with black and red ribbon is connected by a gold chain to a pin on the opposite lapel, which is an oval-shaped red jewel in a gold frame on a red ribbon. Dandy is wearing a long crimson jacket and vest, black wide-brimmed hat that obscures their short black hair, white shirt with scalloped collar, wide black leather cincher belt, another black leather belt with a pouch, a black leather cross body bag, a black neck tie with pink floral print, a black skirt with a similar floral pattern, black knee socks and calf-high rubber boots. They have large square wire-frame glasses and a black fabric mask with 2 decorative leather riveted straps running vertically down the front.
Lolita is a street fashion developed in Japan, which takes inspiration from Victorian and Rococo fashion, and utilizes plenty of accessories to create detailed, coordinated looks known as “coords.”
Ouji (also known as boystyle) is the masculine counterpart to Lolita. With shorts or pants rather than the bell-shaped or A-line skirts of Lolita, Oujis dress to evoke the look of a young prince. A more mature masculine look (such as the one in black photographed above) would fall under the Aristocrat J-fashion style.
One of the most important principles in this family of styles is coordination. The colors and motifs in a coord should play well with and complement each other, such that each individual element in an outfit looks like it belongs to the greater whole.
A close up of Dandy outdoors in the daytime. They are in a red wide-brimmed hat, black mask with red rose print, red rose earring stud, dangling bronze sword earrings, bronze mask chain with red beads, a black jacket, and cream blouse with red rose print. In the middle of their collar is pinned an oval-shaped glass cabochon with a shimmery red rose design against a black backdrop, in a bronze frame. Under the collar is a red lace cravat.
A zoomed out shot of the previous outfit. We can now see the rose corsage from the previous outfits pinned to Dandy's lapel, and the brown cross-body strap, the red leather belt with corset lacing down the front, the ruffled red skirt Dandy is holding out, and their brown boots.
Through this approach, the mask is another instrument I can write a part for in the symphony of my outfit. So rather than interrupting the flow of the music, the mask harmonizes with the rest of the ensemble.
One of the things I enjoy about Lolita and related styles is how I can build my wardrobe over time, reusing clothes and accessories in new ensembles.
As I add pieces to my collection, I can return to concepts and themes from coords that I enjoyed and tackle them again with more experience and skill.
Dandy in a garden in the daytime. They are wearing a wide fabric-covered headband, printed with pink roses on a green background. The floral print on their shirt is very similar in color. Their cream bow tie with pink flowers has similar colors to their mask. The pink roses on cream fabric of the mask is trimmed with white eyelet lace running vertically below the eyes. Tiny pink ribbons weave through the holes in the lace, and are tied into bows at top of the mask. A second, non-woven mask is visible under the fabric mask. Hanging from the top corners where both masks meet are the flower-shaped clasps of a gold mask chain with rose quartz beads. Their jacket is cream, tied with a brown leather belt at the waist. They have arrow-shaped gold lapel pins, and a bronze cardigan clip just above the belt.
A zoomed out shot of the previous outfit. Dandy has their mask down, hanging just touching their belt. We can now see their brown skirt, and a dangling pink rose earring is just visible.
When it comes to accessories in Lolita, more is more. Going “over the top,” or OTT with accessories is a valid way to wear Lolita.
It’s also acceptable to find uses for accessories outside of their intended purpose. This mold-breaking use of accessories is such a staple in the community that designers in this space build versatility into their pieces.
For example, the rose corsage made by Filipino designer Fancy Moi has both a hair clip and a safety pin on the back. This allows me to wear it in my hair, pinned to my lapel or hat, or numerous other creative ways I may yet discover.
On the Metro Manila transit system, where masks are required, mask chains and mask cords are a common sight. They allow one to take off their mask without needing to stow it away.
A flat lay of accessories from the previous outfit. We can now more clearly see the subtle black and grey stripes on the right half of the mask, and the bronze stars inside the baubles.
I wanted to try incorporating mask chains into my coords. However, I couldn’t find ones that suited my aesthetic. So I decided to design my own.
I first started designing and selling jewelry back in 2015. I named my shop GleamTrove, in theme with the fantasy-inspired designs of the shop’s offerings.
I primarily sold my jewelry at pop-up events in Metro Manila, such as conventions and bazaars.
Since what inspired my personal fashion also inspired GleamTrove’s designs, I also found customers among my friends in the Philippine Gothic and Lolita community.
A flat lay of various pride mask chains. From the top, the first is rainbow on gold, with star clasps. Second, bisexual on silver, with a star clasp and a moon clasp. Third, pansexual on gold with sakura flower-shaped clasps. Fourth, transgender on silver, with moon-shaped clasps. Fourth, lesbian on bronze, with heart-shaped clasps. Fifth, nonbinary on bronze. Sixth, asexual on silver. Seventh, Aromantic on bronze with moon-shaped clasps. Eighth, the gay men flag colors, on silver.
In 2020, when the pandemic began, GleamTrove went dormant. It wasn’t until conventions started happening again in 2022 I began to revive my brand.
I wanted to make mask chains that would be suitable for Lolita fashion — both in aesthetics and versatility.
I used beads made of iridescent glass or semi-precious stone, and spaced them out to give them a delicate, classy look.
I took some novelty claps (shaped like flowers, hearts, and other cute symbols) which I’d previously only seen used in keychains, and incorporated them into the design of my mask chains.
These large clasps are detachable — they connect to the mask chain at the smaller lobster claw clasps, and the mask chains can be used with just these smaller clasps.
I also made designs in pride flag colors. As a nonbinary person myself, a mask chain in my pride flag’s colors was one of my first prototypes.
I’m hopeful about finding customers for my mask chains at the local Lolita fashion convention, Lace Up, and at Metro Manila Pride. I’m also making my mask chains available online, through GleamTrove’s Instagram (@gleamtrove).
Like a thoughtfully-chosen mask, a mask chain can add color and interest to an outfit. It can tie disparate elements together, or carry a motif. These accessories can be more than just practical necessities — they can be objects of beauty, and avenues of creativity and self-expression.
about the creator
Illustration of Dandy wearing a burgundy red newsboy cap, bowtie of the same color, navy blue suspenders, and wireframe glasses. Their dark, straight hair is in a pixie cut
Dan Dy-Liacco (they/them) is an illustrator, graphic designer, and jewelry crafter with ADHD from the Philippines. They co-created the award-winning comic “Flow”, published in the anthology Komiks Cum Laude. Their map illustrations have appeared in the fantasy novels Astrid’s Apostle and Daughters of Astrid. Their illustration “Welcome to Wonderland: Tea Time”, winner of the 2022 Welcome to Wonderland J-Fashion Art Competition, will feature in the upcoming volume of Lolita fashion magazine Lolita Memoires. They can be found online under the handle @DrawnByDandy. Their jewelry shop can be found under the handle @GleamTrove.