What exactly is a “gender expansive” fashion show? The good people of Greenville, South Carolina, attempted to answer this question in June of 2021. My wife and I drove up from Atlanta. Like most people who participated, we’d been stuck in our house for ages due to the pandemic. It was our first post-vaccine road-trip and we were thrilled, rebirthing our best and most fashionable selves against the onslaught of coronavirus. But we were also amused and worried. A queer fashion show attempted on this big a scale—in Greenville?

My wife was walking the runway for Sharpe Haus, helmed by designer Leon Wu, a dear friend of ours from Los Angeles. I embedded with the Sharpe folks and generally roamed around behind the scenes, noticing and documenting on the fly with my crap smartphone, inspired in a nineties kind of way by the newbie DIY vibes emanating from all corners of this scene. These Southerners were starving for a loudly queer conversation. They wanted to assert their existence in order to provoke a rebirth of Southern culture itself—where South Carolina is revealed to be inclusive and proud.

The event sold out. There were 250 guests and over 50 staff, models, designers, vendors, et cetera. Perhaps the wildest thing was discovering there was zero press coverage, neither local nor national. The event organizers had hired a professional photographer to do the classic head-on posing shots at the end of the runway and that’s it. But anybody who has ever walked at a queer runway show knows it’s not about the fifteen seconds you’re individually up there doing your thing; it’s about the community you make all weekend long to create an experience that has been greater than the sum of its parts. It’s about the crowd, not so much about the clothes.

Whether the event becomes an annual thing or whether it turns out to have been a legendary one-off, this 45-minute video I put together seems to be the only full story about it on record. I’m glad I was there to catch it, to give it a permanently available second life among people who couldn’t participate in it directly that weekend. Hopefully this event was a spark that can ignite Greenville and the South at large. Only time will tell.

audio descriptions & transcript

Purple background with white text that reads “GENDER EXPANSIVE FASHION SHOW, Greenville, South Carolina, June 26, 2021, Megan Volpert was there, tagging along with Sharpe Haus.”

Black screen with white text that reads “FRIDAY NIGHT, 28 hrs til showtime.”

Next is a zoomed-in picture of clothes hanging on a rack with white text on a purple highlight that says “GETTING THE FIT.”

Another picture of suit jackets hanging on a rack, zoomed in.

A picture of a person holding up a pair of jeans to another person's body, while a third looks at them, with white text on a blue highlight that reads “@leoneliaswu.”

A picture of a person tying a tie around another person’s neck.

Another picture of the same people tying a tie, further along in the process of tying.

Another picture of the same people from a different angle.

A picture of two people standing, the one in front holding out their arms to the other, showing the shirt they are wearing.

Another picture of the same people standing, this time with the one behind touching the shirt, and a 3rd person is next to them. Picture waves as a transition to the next video.

Video of a long hallway with white text on a purple highlight that says “LEARNING THE WALK” and white text on a blue highlight that says “@nikki_eason.”

A person walks down the long hallway, practicing a model walk.

A picture of another person walking down the hallway, and then another picture of that person standing looking to the side, wearing a white t-shirt and black jeans, white text on a blue highlight “@idaffne.”

A picture of another person practicing their walk, wearing a black t-shirt and khaki shorts, followed by another of the same person walking, white text on a blue highlight “@_dannyfrsh,” a third picture of this person walking, a fourth of them posing with their arms crossed, and a fifth of them walking again.

Multiple pictures of the next person walking down the hallway and posing, wearing a purple pinstripe suit, white text on blue highlight “@dappermindy.”

Multiple photos of the next person walking and posing, wearing a black t-shirt and blue jeans, white text on blue highlight “@amaya_villanueva.”

Multiple photos of another person walking and posing, wearing a blue button down and dark jeans, white text on blue highlight “@eddy_gvl.” Multiple photos of the next person walking and posing, wearing a black v-neck t-shirt and blue ripped jeans, white text on blue highlight “@stace_toasty.”

Multiple photos of the next person walking, wearing a purple suit, white text on blue highlight “@tmerlis15.”

Multiple photos of the next model posing, wearing a pink t-shirt and white shorts, white text on blue highlight “@heeavy1.”

A photo of another person in a black t-shirt and blue distressed jeans walking, followed by a video of them walking and dancing.

Video of people standing in a circle talking, camera zooms on person wearing black t-shirt and distressed jeans who is talking. 

Purple screen with white text “SATURDAY, 12 hrs til showtime.”

A picture of an open makeup kit with a lot of makeup, white text on a purple highlight “BEATING THE FACE.”

A close up picture of someone holding a concealer out over the makeup kit.

Photo of one person standing, putting lipstick onto another seated person.

Another photo of the same scene, still putting on the lipstick.

A photo of someone putting face makeup on another person, another photo of these people from the side angle, another photo of these same people this time with the person applying eyebrow product. Picture waves and dissolves to transition to next photo.

Photo of four people sitting in chairs, all looking at something off-camera, white text on purple highlight “ALSO TIME FOR CHATS.”

Video of Mindy speaking directly to camera, shown wearing a multicolor button down and bowtie and pink vest, with purple hair and glasses.

Video of Leon speaking directly to the camera, wearing a black baseball tee with white sleeves that says “Sharpe” in white, with black short hair buzzed on the sides, someone uses a spoolie on their eyebrows.

Video of Nikki speaking to camera while having makeup applied to their eyes, wearing a white t-shirt and they have braided hair in a bun.

A video of Daphne talking to camera while having face makeup applied, they are wearing a black t-shirt, silver chain, and a black wide brimmed hat.

Two photos of Amaya standing in front of two canvases on the wall with purple art and the words “THIRST TRAP,” followed by multiple photos of them having makeup applied to their face while sitting by someone who is standing in front of them.

Video of Amaya speaking to camera while someone applies face makeup, wearing a white v-neck t-shirt with a gold star necklace and purple and pink hair. A video of Ray speaking to the camera while having makeup applied to her face, wearing a black v-neck t-shirt and they have long dark brown locs, white text on blue highlight “@realdreamthreads413.”

A video of Stace speaking directly to the camera, pictured wearing a black and tan button down open over a black top with a silver necklace and short, pompadoured, brown hair.

Video of Delilah speaking to the camera while someone applies makeup, pictured wearing a black v-neck shirt with dark brown to blonde ombre hair in a high ponytail.

Next video of an announcer holding a mic walks on stage, white text on a purple highlight “SHOWTIME.” Video dissolves to next video.

Amaya walks down the runway wearing a black blazer with red lapels, a purple t-shirt, a baseball cap, and distressed light blue jeans and walks back and spins. Video dissolves.

Next model walks wearing a black t-shirt, purple blazer, a tan baseball cap, and light blue jeans, they pose, dance and walk back. Video dissolves.

Next model walks wearing a black t-shirt, black blazer, and black pants, they pose and dance and walk back. Video dissolves.

Ray walks the runway wearing a red t-shirt, white blazer, distressed blue jeans, and a blue baseball cap, poses a few times, and walks back. Video dissolves. Stace walks wearing a chain print blazer, white t-shirt, and blue jeans, they pose, dance, and walk back. Video dissolves.

Next model walks wearing a rainbow tie dye t-shirt, dark wash jeans, black blazer, white cap, and a cross body bag, they pose a few times and walk back. Video dissolves.

Next model walks wearing black t-shirt and jeans, blue blazer, and a white cap, they pose and walk back. Video dissolves.

Next Delilah walks wearing distressed black jeans, white t-shirt, a purple blazer, and a black baseball hat. They pose multiple times and walk back. Video dissolves.

Next Nikki walks the runway in a blue suit with a white button down and a red tie, they unbutton the suit, pose, and walk back. Video dissolves.

Next model walks wearing a maroon suit with a white button down and a plaid tie, they pose and walk back. Video dissolves.

Next model walks down wearing an olive green suit with a white button down and gray tie, they pose and walk back. Video dissolves.

Mindy walks wearing a purple pinstripe three-piece suit with a white button down and bowtie, poses, pulls out a handkerchief and pretends to cry, and opens it up to show an image, and then walks back. Video dissolves.

Next all the models walk in a line down the runway in their outfits, clapping, reach the end and walk back. Then Leon walks alone down the runway and waves to and thanks the audience, bows, and walks back.

Purple screen with white text “Of course, Sharpe Haus was not the only designer there. Meet tons of fierce and fabulous southerners.”

Photo of a white door with a sign that says “RESTROOMS FOR ALL GENDERS” with a drawing of two toilets. Photo of two people standing on the runway, one person bent over to measure something, the other watching. A picture of the venue with rows of black chairs surrounding the runway, white text on a blue highlight “@carolinabauernausgvl.” Picture dissolves.

Video of Thai speaking directly to camera, shown wearing a pink floral button down open over a white t-shirt with a crystal necklace, curly blonde hair, and black glasses.

Video of Nicole speaking to camera while wearing a black blazer over a grey blouse with a brown shag haircut.

Video of Salem speaking to camera, wearing a black graphic t-shirt with glasses and short brown curly hair.

Video of Shelton speaking to camera while someone applies makeup to their face, wearing an olive green-grey henley shirt with very short brown hair.

Video of Kirsten speaking to camera while applying makeup to someone off camera, wearing a black tank top and black and white gingham pants, with brown hair in a bun and black sunglasses on her head.

A video of Brandy speaking to camera wearing a black t-shirt with her logo in white text and her braided hair in a bun.

Video of Alex speaking to camera while someone applies makeup, they are wearing a pink and grey flannel shirt with short green and blue hair.

Video of Adam speaking to camera wearing a white t-shirt, black glasses, and short, pompadoured, brown hair.

Video of Finn speaking to camera and having face makeup applied while wearing a blue t-shirt, purple gauge earrings, and short brown curly hair.

Video of Michelle speaking to camera while someone applies concealer, shown wearing a blue denim button down with long blue and green wavy hair.

Video of Sarah having eyeshadow applied while speaking, wearing a black v-neck tank top and they have green and purple hair.

Video of Austin speaking while having neck makeup applied, wearing a black zip up hoodie and short, orange, pompadoured hair.

Video of Shannon speaking directly to camera wearing a black t-shirt that says “WOKE UP GAY AGAIN” in white text, purple glasses, and short dirty blonde hair. Video waves and dissolves.

Picture of someone in a red dress sitting at a table with papers with two people on the other side standing, white text in purple highlight “STREET STYLES.”

Picture of someone wearing a maroon lace top, black skirt, tights and boots.

Picture of someone wearing a long cheetah and black paneled dress with a wide black belt.

Picture of someone wearing a light blue tank top with pink flowers, black jeans and boots, tan crossbody bag, and holding a rainbow flag.

Picture of four people behind a table with t-shirts on it, two standing, two seated, talking to someone standing in front of the table.

Picture of someone with a long brown beard and hair and a wide brimmed brown hat standing behind a table with hats on it.

Picture of the audience sitting in black folding chairs around the runway with other people standing around.

Picture of someone's legs wearing yellow shorts and white snakeskin stilettos.

Picture of two people sitting in folding chairs next to each other, talking animatedly.

Picture looking down a row of the audience, mostly showing their legs and feet, with someone walking the runway in the background.

Picture from behind a row of the audience of five people with colorful outfits talking.

Picture of an audience member sitting alone, with someone else sitting facing them across the aisle.

Picture of the audience sitting in black folding chairs, some talking to each other.

Picture of two audience members sitting together, the one on the right has their arm around the other.

Picture of two people’s feet, showing white sneakers with a rainbow and brown combat boots.

Picture of audience with the two closest people facing the camera and smiling while others sit around them.

A picture of a black and white dog on a red leash facing people’s feet.

Picture of two people standing, one wearing a black t-shirt and black flowy pants with long brown hair, the other wearing a black miniskirt and crop top with an open white button down and blonde hair in a bun.

Picture of three people standing together with their arms around each other, smiling.

Picture of a couple with their arms linked, one wearing a navy dress, the other in a grey suit with pink shirt.

Picture of someone wearing a black tank top with bows on the shoulder and yellow shorts that tie in the front and a straw fedora.

Picture of a couple with their arms around each other, one wearing a brown t-shirt and navy pants, the other wearing a long cheetah print dress.

Picture of someone standing looking back over their shoulder, wearing a green floral tiered maxi dress.

Picture of someone holding an open fan, wearing a blue button jacket, worn open over the chest and off the shoulders.

Picture of three people standing, one wearing white pants and a black tee, the next wearing a black crop top and tiger print skirt, and the last wearing  green patterned shirt with black pants.

Picture of two people standing, one wearing a black jumpsuit with brown boots, the other wearing black plaid pants, a green t-shirt, and an orange vinyl fanny pack.

Photo of a person wearing a black shirt, purple skirt, purple statement necklace and earrings, and a purple hat with a long vale, and white face makeup.

Picture of someone wearing a rainbow cape and outfit, holding a rainbow fan, with a tall tiara, then another picture of this person’s face with colorful eyeshadow and a black boa.

Photo of audience members sitting, holding drinks and phones, talking and laughing.

Photo of someone wearing a black button down with a graphic rainbow print, a yellow blazer with pins on the lapels, and glasses with blue lipstick. Picture waves and dissolves.

Picture of the ceiling with rainbow lights shining on it. Picture dissolves.

Video of an announcer on the runway holding a mic, white text on purple highlight “DAVID HAWKINS, co-organizer,” camera zooms in on David speaking, wearing a black t-shirt with white text that says “I’m extra” and black jeans. Camera pans audience to show it is full.

Purple screen with white text “HAIR & MAKEUP SHOW, highlight reel, Ali Waller Beauty, Mailroom Barber, The Oxford Barber Co., Fringe Color Studio.”

Dissolves to video of Austin walking the runway in a black coat with a belt and black pants, with short orange hair. Video dissolves.

Alex walks down the runway with black t-shirt and pants, with short green and blue hair. Video dissolves.

Video of all the models walking the runway and clapping. Video dissolves.

Video of next model walking the runway, wearing a black button down and pants with short brown hair. Video dissolves.

Next model walks down the runway wearing a black v-neck crop top and sarong style skirt, with short dark blonde hair. Video dissolves.

David Hawkins walks runway wearing the same outfit he announced in, with short light brown hair. Video dissolves.

All the models walk down the runway and back clapping. Video dissolves.

Model turning and posing on runway wearing a black sports bra, black open button down, and black shorts. Video dissolves.

The next model walks wearing a black t-shirt and jeans with gold necklaces and walks back. Video dissolves.

Next model walks wearing a black turtleneck tank top and jeans with short curly dark brown hair. Video dissolves.

Next model walks wearing a black t-shirt, black jacket, and black pants with long brown hair in two braids at the front and a bun in the back. Video dissolves.

Next model walks wearing a black t-shirt, long black skirt, and brown hair with a mullet haircut, shaved on the sides. Video dissolves.

All the models walk down the runway and back clapping.

Purple screen with white text “FASHION SHOW, highlight reel, Billiam Jeans, Sharpe Haus, Her Love, Lululemon, Kaftko, Carolina Sonoma.”

Next model walks the runway wearing a white shirt with wide shoulders and white pants and they have long curly brown hair that is slicked back in the front.

The next model walks down the runway with a white button down shirt worn open and white pants.

The next model walks down the runway using a cane in one hand, wearing a white t-shirt and white pants.

The next model walks down wearing a white cropped t-shirt, white pants, and a white choker necklace.

The next model walks wearing a white button down with the sleeves cut off open over a white tank top with white pants.

The next model walks wearing a white turtleneck shirt with long sleeves that have extra long cape sleeves and white pants.

All the models walk up and down the runways, some of them clapping.

The next model walks wearing a taupe jumpsuit with words on the back, they pose and dance before walking back.

The next model takes off a white coat with rainbow splatter on it, revealing a white button down, only the top button done, with a yellow tie and black pants, they then throw the jacket over their shoulder before walking back.

The next model walks the runway and wears a white button down, white pants, a blue vest, a backpack and a white bucket hat with rainbow splatter.

The models walk down the runway in a line and walk back.

Picture of a model walking the runway wearing a matching purple tank crop top and leggings holding a white shirt over their shoulder.

Picture of a model with a purple sports bra and darker purple floral leggings with a black jacket worn off the shoulders, next picture shows the same model with the jacket worn all the way on, the next shows it with the hood up.

Picture of a model wearing a black and grey camouflage t-shirt, cropped below the torso.

Picture of a model wearing a black and white busy patterned short sleeve button down with tan pants, the next picture is of the same model from behind, with their head turned over their right shoulder.

Video of all the models walking up and down the runway together, clapping.

The next model walks the runway wearing a green camouflage button down and black pants.

The next model wears a purple blouse with drawings of eyes on it in pink and white, with pink underwear.

The next model walks the runway wearing a blue, brown, pink, yellow, and orange striped full length caftan.

The next model walks the runway wearing a v-neck, black and yellow geometric striped short caftan with multicolor underwear underneath that they pull the caftan up to reveal.

The next model walks the runway wearing a short, black and white small patterned caftan, with splits up the sides, and they have short green hair. Video of all the models walking together down the runway and back, clapping.

The next model walks the runway wearing a red strapless ball gown with a ruffle around the waist, they spin in the dress and walk back.

The next model walks wearing a pink and red full length wrap dress with lace and sequins on the sleeves and a sash at the waist.

The next model walks down the runway wearing a form fitting, white, sleeveless long dress with a purple and green abstract print, which is backless when they turn around.

The next model walks the runway wearing a ball gown that has a purple satin tank top with one side having a thicker strap and a floaty, full pink skirt.

The next model walks the runway wearing a spaghetti strap, empire waist line purple gown with lots of tulle tiers in the skirt.

The next model walks the runway in a structured blue gown that is form fitting, has a strapless silhouette with sleeves worn separately, the model twirls several times while walking back.

The next model walks wearing a black sheath gown with sequin sleeves and a multicolor floral pattern.

The next model walks the runway wearing a black dress that has a v neckline and distressed straps with a tight mini skirt under a long full sheer black skirt.

The model walks back and dances before they leave the runway.

Video of all the models walking down the runway and back clapping.

Video of a model wearing a yellow form fitting dress walking back down the runway and joining hands with someone wearing a black t-shirt and jeans.

Video of an announcer on the runway holding a mic, wearing a maroon shirt, black blazer and black pants, camera pans to show the audience reacting and clapping.

Video of all the models of the show from all the segments walking down the runway in two lines and then splitting to walk to the side.

A portion of the models stay on the runway to perform a choreographed dance. They then begin clapping and continue to walk down the runway all together. They dance more at the end of the runway together before each model individually poses and turns to walk back down the runway. Once they all reach the beginning of the runway again they resume the choreographed dance.

The camera pans to show the audience giving a standing ovation with many people filming.

The models all fill the runway, clapping, and cheering with the audience.

Next two people come out, one wearing all black the other in a green suit. The one wearing black takes a bow, then motions to the one in green, and bows to them several times while they point around the room. They wrap their arms around each others back.

White text on a purple highlight “EDDY TAYLOR co organizer.”

As the one wearing the green suit speaks, the one wearing black tries to excite the crowd with pumping arm movements and jumping. They wave goodbye to the audience. Video fades to another.

Video of a person wearing a white t-shirt with a white blazer with the sleeves cut off speaking directly to camera.

White text on a purple highlight “THAT’S A WRAP.” Fade to purple screen with white text “fin.”

Megan Volpert is author or editor of over a dozen books on popular culture, including two Lambda Literary Award finalists and an American Library Association honoree. She won Georgia Author of the Year for her newest work, Boss Broad (Sibling Rivalry Press, 2019). Volpert is a part-time Assistant Professor of Interdisciplinary Studies at Kennesaw State University, has been teaching public high school English in Atlanta for almost two decades and was 2014 Teacher of the Year. She writes for PopMatters and has edited anthologies of philosophical essays on the music of Tom Petty and the television series RuPaul’s Drag Race, as well as the fashion anthology Closet Cases: Queers on What We Wear (Et Alias Press, 2020).